How to Add a Ruffle Hem to Any Trousers

How sew ruffle hem trousers with any pattern

A simple sewing hack to give basic trousers a softer, more playful shape.

There’s something very satisfying about taking a simple pair of trousers and adding one extra detail that completely changes the feel of them. Ruffle hem trousers have a softer, more playful feel while still being just as comfortable and easy to wear.

For this version, I used the self-drafted trouser project from my upcoming book The Pattern-Free Wardrobe, but this technique works with almost any trouser pattern.

You can go dramatic with a deep gathered hem or keep it subtle with a smaller frill. The best part is that it’s beginner friendly and easy to customise.

You’ll want to sew your trousers first and leave the hems unfinished, as the ruffle is added right at the end.

What You’ll Need

• A trouser pattern or handmade trousers

• Matching or contrasting fabric for the ruffle

• Thread

• Pins or clips

• Sewing machine

• Measuring tape

• Iron

Step 1: Decide on Your Ruffle Depth

First decide how deep you want the finished ruffle to be.

I chose a larger ruffle measuring 9" deep for a more exaggerated shape, but a smaller 3" ruffle would also look really cute for an everyday version.

Once you’ve chosen your depth, shorten the trouser leg by that amount.

For example:

• 9" ruffle = remove 9" from the trouser leg

• 3" ruffle = remove 3" from the trouser leg

  
  

Remember to account for seam allowance and hemming when cutting your ruffle pieces.

The easiest option is to add an extra 1" to the depth measurement overall. This allows for a 1/2" seam allowance at the top where the ruffle joins the trouser leg, and a 1/2" hem allowance at the bottom using a narrow double fold hem (folding the edge over by 1/4" twice).

If you prefer standard dressmaking seam allowances, you could use a 3/8" seam allowance instead at the top.

Step 2: Measure the Trouser Hem

Measure the circumference of the bottom edge of your trouser leg.

This measurement will help you work out how wide your ruffle needs to be.

Step 3: Cut the Ruffle Pieces

Cut a rectangle for each trouser leg.

Use this formula:

Trouser hem circumference × 2 = ruffle width

The extra width creates the gathers.

Then cut the depth according to your chosen ruffle size.

Example:

• Trouser opening = 20"

• Ruffle width = 40"

• Ruffle depth = 9"

You can make the ruffle even fuller if you want more volume.

Step 4: Sew the Ruffle Into a Loop

Fold the ruffle piece right sides together and sew the short edges to create a loop.

Finish the seam and press it open.

Step 5: Gather the Top Edge

Sew two rows of gathering stitches along the top edge of the ruffle.

Gently pull the threads until the ruffle matches the circumference of the trouser leg.

Distribute the gathers evenly around the fabric.

Step 6: Attach the Ruffle

With right sides together, pin the gathered edge to the trouser hem.

Sew slowly around the leg, adjusting gathers as needed.

Finish the seam with an overlocker, zigzag stitch, or your preferred seam finish.

Tip: Before attaching the ruffle, divide both the ruffle and trouser leg into four equal sections using pins or clips. Mark the quarter points on each piece, then match these points together when pinning. This helps distribute the gathers evenly and stops all the fullness ending up in one area.

Step 7: Hem the Ruffle

Press the hem edge to the wrong side, twice, and sew in place.

A narrow hem works beautifully here, especially with lighter fabrics.

Give everything a final press and your trousers are finished.

Fabric Ideas

This technique works well with:

• Linen

• Cotton poplin

• Needlecord

• Gingham

• Lightweight denim

• Soft viscose for a floatier look

You could even add lace trim, contrast fabric, or patchwork panels for a more decorative version.

A Simple Way to Customise Basics

I’ve been trying to make more everyday wearable clothes recently, and details like this are such an easy way to make basics feel a bit more personal without overcomplicating the sewing process.

The self-drafted trousers from The Pattern-Free Wardrobe are designed exactly for that kind of sewing. Simple shapes that can be adapted again and again depending on fabric, trims, and styling!

If you're interested in more self-draft projects like this, here the link to the book -

https://www.whatkimberleymakes.com/product-page/pre-order-the-pattern-free-wardrobe-book-10-simple-dressmaking-projects

Happy sewing! Kym x